Solo Travel Diaries: Lisbon (Part 2)
and the journey is filled with moments of surprise .. slow travels ~2 months
As I shared my joy of exploring Lisbon and the familiarity of the city to San Francisco, I am in awe with the love and support from folks around the world. I truly feel our differences are just a mask and we can be in oneness and appreciate each other.
Below is my first blog on solo slow travel, if you missed the start from March/April.
I am continuing my slow travel and reflecting back to the month of April as I completed my first solo trip of 6 weeks in Lisbon.
My observations
Language - Without knowing portuguese, I struggled to build that initial connection. I assumed that young folks could speak English, but I was wrong.
In one instant, I was going to the Rossio train station and couldn’t find the place even though I was literally in front of it. I asked a girl where is the train station, only to be informed she doesn’t speak english.
Thankfully I had started to learn Portuguese in Duolingo and knew the word - comboio for train station and she pointed to the building nearby.
I was intimated to go to the local pastelarias as they didn’t understand English and I had to make do with sign language.
I felt easily lost and out of place - communication with or without language can be a deal breaker to feel like you belong.
In a historic bakery of over 150 years, they didn’t speak portuguese and couldn’t take credit card and had only cash. Something to do with multibanco, but I didn’t understand. Only after multiple card swipe declines, I realized it’s cash only. Silly me…
Getting out of my own comfort zone was fascinating. I collected the tour booklets and then would go venture out on my own pace.
First, it was walking a few blocks in Campo de Ourique, then heading to the Promenade and exploring the shops and restaurants around Lisbon.
Next was getting on a metro to go to Cascais and Sintra and then finally the bus 3710 to Costa da Caparica.
Each time, I would comfort myself - if I don’t like it or don’t feel safe, I can always get back home. I know the route and metro options to take even if my phone battery dies. Thankfully phone hasn’t given up on me with at least one 80% recharge with a power bank for upto 5-6hours a day.
And each time, I loved seeing new places and exploring the city, gardens, parks, and beaches.
I loved walking around each park and garden and capturing the beauty of plants, trees, and flowers. There were peacocks roaming, which was so cool.
Jardim da Estrela
Jardim Botânico de Lisboa
Estufa Fria
Tapada das Necessidades
Jardim Botânico d'Ajuda
Jardim Botânico Tropical
Jardins da Água
Jardim Vasco da Gama
Jardim da Praça do Império
Jardim Botto Machado
Jardim da Torre de Belém
Walk the streets and capture the tile art
I got to see Jacaranda trees - the purple flowers in bloom around the city of Lisbon. They bloom around May/June, so I got lucky to see them before I left.
Jacaranda - you are definitely one of a kind.. I remember seeing your photo, but meeting you in person is phenomenal. The color of purple in your eyes is just wow! I thought cherry blossom was my fav, but now you have a special place. You bloom in my birthday month of May - love it!
Where to go to see the magic of jacarandas?
I walked these streets in Lisbon to see and capture this beautiful phenomenon. Best time to see is May/June.
(as of May 7, 2023)
Botanical Garden of Ajuda (Belém) - they have Jacaranda trees as old as 250+ years. (not yet in bloom, very little flowers this year as yet). Outside the garden the street has jacaranda flowers in bloom.
Avenue Dom Carlos - just starting to bloom
near Rato Metro (in bloom)
Botto Machado garden (best view - full bloom)
Parque Eduardo VII (just started to bloom)
Castilho street (just started to bloom)
Almirante Barroso street (just started to bloom)
Rossio square (just started to bloom)
Viva viagem - when you are ready to travel around the city of Lisbon at your own pace, the viva viagem travel card is super helpful. You can load cash from €3,5,10 + as needed at the metro station and pay for the ride as you go. This also has discounted rates for metro/bus as far as I understand.
Metro is €1.65, which is incredibly cheap and makes travel easier with connections from the city to the airport. You can take the train to Sintra from Rossio and Cascais from Cais do Sodré.
When taking bus 3710 to Costa da Caparica, ticket fare was listed online as €2.60, but was charged 1€.55 with viva viagem, which was a nice surprise.
You can use for the ferry as well. Just remember that there is a green viva viagem for the Almada side (south) and white viva viagem is for Lisbon side.
E-passport - Didn’t know this before and this has been a game changer for faster immigration with the automated e-gates.
With the flexibility to stay in Portugal (schengen zone) for upto 90 days was a great way to start slow travel.
I hope to explore other countries and cities as time and budget permits.
E-sim and Data connectivity - I tried airalo for 100mb 7-day only validity. This was great that you don’t need a physical sim and can navigate the country or region with esim plans. I ended up using <10mb as there is wifi at most places.
If not, the local supermarkets and grocery stores - auchan, pingo doce, continente bom dia are viable options for wifi and you will likely find one within walking distance.
Airalo felt like a waste of money to not have longer validity for 100mb and luckily came across keepgo as I was researching affordable data plans to meet my specific need.
Keepgo 100mb Europe coverage gives unlimited data validity as long as I recharge once a year. Now, this is promising.
Cash - There are ATMs around the city, but I used my VISA card at most places. I prefer not to have to think about ATM transaction fees. Some ATMs with multibanco had fees. I think Santander is a good option. Look for banks that have min. transaction fee partnership with your card.
I converted €40 for backup in case there are places that take only cash. And ended up spending the amount - so keep some cash as fail safe.
Grocery / Supermarkets
First step in any city is to get a good landscape of your local food and grocery options.
Supermarkets
Pingo Doce - was the closest to my apartment and affordable (<5min). The name translates to sweet drop :)
My Auchan
Continente Bom Dia
Aldi
Celeiro and Go Natural - have healthy options and more pricey
I found pitaya/Dragon fruit frozen and Matcha - I am happy!
Mercado is a great option to get local items - everything from fruits n vegetables to nuts and spices to bakery to fish and meat.
Mercado Campo De Ourique
Mercado da Ribeira
Mercado 31 de Janeiro
International Flavers - Great to find items from around the world - Africa, Europe, Asia and America.
Cute art and craft or florist shops to explore (my fav pass time)
Flying Tiger Copenhagen
Mexerica
Love these quotes art from the shop - it spoke to me in a simple way. And on the last Saturday at the market, I got to meet the artist - surreal.
A good traveler has no fixed path and is not intent on arriving. Lao Tzu
Those who flow as life flows know they need no other force. Lao Tzu
We must be willing to let go of the life we planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us. Joseph CampbellNunes
Florista Pequeno Jardim
Livraria Bertrand - Chiado (Oldest Bookshop)
Foodie Love
Al Shami Syrian restaurant — Warbat , Falafel, Kibbeh
Kerala - Ghee roast dosa, Bebinca
Dalí Cozinha Surreal - Brazilian moqueca, hanging shrimp
Macau Dim Sum (Yum Cha Garden) — Lotus wrapped fried rice, crab xao long bao, lotus cake
Ni Michi Cocina Latina - tacos al pastor, hibiscus agua de jamaica
Empanada - spicy chicken
Plato 13 - black cod fish, sweet 13
Amélia Lisboa - yogurt bowl, sumo amelia, avocado toast
Mariscaria, Cascais - seabream
Soi Asian Street food - duck confit bao, pandan bao
Pastel de nata - Apolo 150+ years
Bijou Cascais - Pumpkin and Kiwi Pastel de nata
Time out market - pudim de queijada, duck rice
Granos Espaco Vegetariano - Quiche, Pastel de nata, hot chocolate
Patisserie Dacquiose - macarons (rose litchi)
Furnas do Guincho, Cascais - Barnacles, Seabass
Baguettes & Cornets - Mini chocolate croissant, apple turnover, almond cake financier
Aloma - Pastel de nata, Bola de Berlim
Pão da Esquina - Campo de Ourique -- Orange cake, meat pies
Pasteis de Belem - pastel de nata, quiche, chamucas
A Padaria Libanesa - flatbread, mutabal
Embrace the city of Lisboa and fall in love with the streets,
the gardens, the culture, the food and the people!